
No Hot Water
If there's water pooling under the tank or a burning smell around it, cut the gas or the breaker to the unit and leave it alone until someone can look at it.
When this becomes an emergency
- Hot water that runs lukewarm for a few minutes and then goes cold.
- A rumbling or popping sound from the tank when the burner runs.
- A pilot flame that will not stay lit after being relit.
- Rusty water from the hot side only, with the cold side running clear.
What a pro does
Diagnosis splits early on fuel type. A gas tank that won't stay lit sends the plumber to the thermocouple, the gas control and the venting, in that order. An electric unit with the same complaint means pulling the access panels to test the upper and lower elements and the thermostats behind them, since a failed lower element gives you a short burst of hot water and then nothing, which is the complaint people describe most often. Water chemistry does a lot of damage in this valley. The supply here carries a heavy mineral load, and that comes out of solution inside a hot tank and settles as a hard layer over the burner. That layer is what makes an older heater rumble. It also forces the burner to run longer for the same result, which shortens the life of the tank. A plumber checks the anode rod on a unit old enough to matter, because once it's spent the tank wall itself is what corrodes next. Where the heater sits in an unconditioned garage, as it does in most newer subdivision homes here, the plumber also looks at how hard the unit is working through a cold snap.
Frequently asked questions
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